Tanzania, by the herds

There is no single best month, because the herds move all year. January to March they calve on the southern Serengeti plains; from about June they head north-west, and August to October is the season of the Mara River crossings in the far north.

June to October is the dry season and the easiest for game viewing. The long rains fall from March to May and the short rains from late October to December. We place your Serengeti nights by the month you travel.

Yes. The simplest way is the official Tanzania e-Visa, applied for online before you fly through the Immigration Department's portal. Zanzibar is part of Tanzania, so the same visa covers it. We check the current rules with you when we plan, as they can change.

Not for Tanzania itself: it is not on India's list of yellow-fever countries. But Kenya and Ethiopia are, so if your flights route through Nairobi or Addis Ababa, check the current rule on India's Ministry of Health port-of-entry page before you book. We keep the route in mind when we choose flights.

By air is the easy way: small planes link the northern parks and Arusha with Zanzibar, so there is no need to go back by road. From Dar es Salaam there is also a fast ferry of about two hours. Tanzania's roads are long and slow, which is why we fly the long stretches.

Look for nyama choma, marinated goat or beef grilled over an open flame and shared at an outdoor table, usually with ugali, the maize-flour staple, and a fresh salad. Mishkaki, marinated meat skewers, are the street version. In Zanzibar, pilau, the spiced rice dish, is the one to taste. Safari lodges also serve vegetarian plates, so tell us what you prefer.